The Santa Ynez Valley sits 30 miles north of Santa Barbara in the mountains above the coast — a series of valleys carved by the Santa Ynez River where the Pacific fog rolls through mountain passes in the morning and burns off by noon. The temperature swings between cool mornings and warm afternoons create ideal conditions for pinot noir and chardonnay — varieties that need both heat to ripen and cool nights to retain acidity.

The 2004 film Sideways was filmed here and changed the region permanently. Pinot noir tourism increased dramatically after the film's release and the Santa Ynez Valley developed a wine tourism infrastructure that it maintains today — tasting rooms, restaurants, and a Danish village that started as a curiosity and became a destination.

The towns

Solvang

The most unusual town in California wine country — a Danish village founded in 1911 by Danish-American settlers that has maintained its architectural character through every decade since. Half-timbered buildings, windmills, Danish bakeries, and a main street that looks transplanted from Jutland.

It's touristy and it's genuinely charming. The Danish pastries are excellent. The aebleskiver — round Danish pancake puffs served with jam and powdered sugar — at Solvang Restaurant are worth the stop. The Hans Christian Andersen Museum is unexpectedly good.

Solvang is also the most RV-accessible town in the Santa Ynez Valley — large parking areas on the edge of the commercial district and easy navigation on flat streets.

Los Olivos

The wine tasting epicenter of the Santa Ynez Valley — a single main intersection with a dozen tasting rooms within walking distance and the best restaurants in the region. Grand Avenue is lined with tasting rooms from small family wineries to larger estate operations. The Sideways film used several Los Olivos locations.

Parking in Los Olivos is designed for passenger cars. Base camp in Solvang or Buellton and drive to Los Olivos in your tow vehicle.

Buellton

The service town at the Highway 101/Highway 246 interchange — gas, supplies, and the best campground access in the region. Pea Soup Andersen's restaurant has been on this corner since 1924 and the split pea soup is exactly what it should be.

Santa Ynez

The smallest and most authentic of the valley towns — a historic western town with the Chumash Casino Resort on the edge and a small main street with good restaurants and the local character that the more tourist-focused towns lack.

The wine

Santa Rita Hills

The westernmost sub-appellation — where the Santa Ynez River cuts through the mountains and the Pacific fog and wind funnel directly into the valley. The coolest growing conditions in the region produce the most complex and age-worthy pinot noirs in the Santa Ynez Valley.

Key wineries in the Santa Rita Hills:

Sanford Winery — one of the pioneers of Santa Rita Hills pinot noir. The ranch setting with the original vineyard planted in 1971 is excellent. Estate tastings available by appointment.

Sea Smoke Cellars — one of the most acclaimed pinot noir producers in California. Allocation-only wine club but the tasting room in Lompoc is worth visiting for current releases.

Foley Estates — a larger estate operation with more accessible tasting room hours and consistently excellent Santa Rita Hills pinot.

Happy Canyon

The eastern end of the Santa Ynez Valley — warmer and drier than the Santa Rita Hills. Bordeaux varieties thrive here — cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and sauvignon blanc. The landscape is more open ranch country than the fog-cooled western end.

Sunstone Winery — a Provence-inspired estate with a beautiful tasting room in a stone building surrounded by lavender. One of the most photogenic wineries in the region. The rosé is excellent.

Beckmen Vineyards — excellent estate wines with an organic farming focus. The Purisima Mountain Vineyard produces some of the best Rhône varieties in the region.

The Sideways tour

The 2004 film Sideways follows two friends on a wine country road trip through the Santa Ynez Valley — and put the region on the international wine tourism map. Several of the film's locations are still operating and worth visiting for the connection.

Hitching Post II in Buellton — the restaurant where Miles and Jack celebrate at the end of the film. An old-school Santa Maria-style BBQ restaurant that's been operating since 1952. The pinot noir from the restaurant's own label is excellent. The tri-tip is extraordinary.

Los Olivos Café — a wine country staple on the main street of Los Olivos. The film's memorable wine bar scene was filmed here. Good food and an excellent wine list focused on local producers.

Kalyra Winery — the Australian-owned winery where Sandra Oh's character worked in the film. A fun tasting room atmosphere with Australian and California wines.

Beyond the wine

Neverland Ranch area

The Santa Ynez Valley was home to Michael Jackson's Neverland Ranch — the property is now a private residence but the surrounding landscape and the Figueroa Mountain area above the valley are worth exploring.

Figueroa Mountain Brewing — a local brewery with a taproom in Los Olivos. If you're with non-wine drinkers or simply want a break from tasting fees, the beer is excellent and the Los Olivos taproom has a good patio.

La Purísima Mission State Historic Park

One of the best-preserved California missions — a full complex of church, barracks, workshops, and gardens restored to their early 19th century appearance. The restoration is more complete than most California missions and the grounds are excellent for walking. 3 miles east of Lompoc.

Gaviota State Park

30 minutes south of Solvang on Highway 101 — a state park on the Pacific coast with camping, fishing, and beach access. A good overnight stop at the beginning or end of the wine country visit.

Book on Reserve America → [affiliate link]

Where to stay

Flying Flags RV Resort — the best RV resort in the Santa Ynez Valley. Full hookups, large pull-through sites, a pool, and a location between Solvang and Buellton that puts you within easy driving distance of all the wine roads. The most popular RV destination in the region — book well in advance for fall harvest season.

Book on Campspot → [affiliate link]

Solvang RV Park — full hookups in the heart of Solvang. Walking distance to the Danish village and convenient for Los Olivos day trips.

Book on Campspot → [affiliate link]

Cachuma Lake Recreation Area — a county campground on a reservoir east of Solvang with full hookups and excellent bass fishing. A quieter alternative to the resort options.

Book on Reserve America → [affiliate link]

Harvest Hosts wineries — several Santa Ynez Valley wineries participate. Check the app for current availability.

Book on Harvest Hosts → [affiliate link]

Practical notes

Tasting room reservations are increasingly required. Many of the best Santa Rita Hills producers require reservations — book online before your visit. Walk-in tastings are still available at many Los Olivos tasting rooms.

The wine roads west of Solvang are narrow. Highway 246 west toward Lompoc and the Santa Rita Hills producers is manageable for most vehicles but tight in places. Use your tow vehicle for the western wine roads.

Fall harvest is the best and busiest time. October is peak season in the Santa Ynez Valley — book Flying Flags months in advance and expect winery tasting rooms to be busy on weekends.

Part of the California Wine Country RV Road Trip

California Wine Country RV Road Trip →

‍